Begin by cutting a hook to the length you want the BODY of your fly to be. On longer patterns, I will bend the hook out straight and cut to length. I use Partridge salmon hooks in 3/0 as they are heavy irons and are over 2" when bent all the way out. This gives me a good variety of length choices.
Next cut a short section of maxima, I like the 20lb brown for my loops.
Now tie a small loop with that short piece of mono, leaving enough room on the shank for the junction tubing. I like to prop it up with the thread or even a wire tag. This helps me find it when rigging the fly.
Then tie your fly, whatever pattern you wish. Now it's time to rig the fly! For the junction tubing, I use 14 or 16 gauge copper wire coating. This can be bought at most any hardware store. Comes in black and red. Cut the wire at about 6". Then with pliers strip out the copper wire inside, and viola! You have junction tubing and more copper wire for ribbing than you will ever use. Any junction tubing matched to the hook shank diameter will work though. Just make sure it's nice and snug so it doesn't come undone while casting. In colder months, the tubing will shrink a bit so beware come November, December and on!
To rig the fly. Thread your tippet thru the hook eye, along the top of the fly, thru the mono loop and then thru the junction tubing. Next tie on the hook to the tippet. I use a simple improved cinch knot or non slip mono loop. Pull the hook tight into the tubing.
Next just snug up the tubing onto the shank and you are ready to fish! This positions the hook in the back 1/3 of the fly-just where I want it for those short nippers. Most of the time when a fish is hooked the fly will slide up the leader and away from teeth. I have been fishing some flies for 2 seasons because they take less abuse this way.
Finished fly rigged and ready to fish. I do my rigging stream side as it gives me time to sit and take everything in before I start the hunt.....