Spring Time High Water Fishing

 

We all know its going to happen, it’s just a matter of when. Hopefully sooner in the season then later. Some of my best springtime days have been in really big water and this year we sure have had some crazy flow rates.  Fishing big water is not as intimidating as it may look, but safety must be the number one concern for Anglers.

  Lets break the river down to find fish in high water. Obviously this is not easy but we can narrow it down quickly. The heavy river current will push fish out of there normal holding spots and force them to the soft pockets along the riverbanks. By skipping over the pools and deep water you have eliminated 90% of the river. Now spend your time fishing the other 10% of the river. With the fish hugging the riverbanks they will find there way up the diversions and side channels, some of the side channels on the Salmon River a plenty big enough to swing flies in. With Steelhead holding along the riverbank approach the river with caution, start fishing at your feet (on the bank).  The number one mistake that most anglers make is to reach the river and wade out over the knees. If the spawn has begun even in very little visibility Steelhead have a habit of giving themselves away. Look for a cloud of mud, this can give away an active spawning female on a redd or dark shadows on the bottom, fish for the active males downstream of the female. These males are very territorial and will smash large flies that pass in front of them.  Fish will also hold on the inside seams of corners, in front of diversions and below a point of an island where the water forms a "V" in the current. Look for a current break below fallen tree's (Ellis Cove is a good example).

You can beef up your tackle in the big water, Steelhead are not going to be line shy now, 12lb to even 15lb Maxima wouldn't be to heavy for high colored water.  Just because the water levels are high doesn't mean you need to fish heavier tips either.  You are fishing soft slower water now, Having a fly with a big profile and alot of movement,  fished very slow is the ticket for for success.

So the next time the rivers go high and off color don’t be intimidated, go fish! Just breakdown the river and remember safety is the number one priority.

Scott Howell's Squidro Intruder

Scott Howell's Squidro Steelhead Fly from Leland Fly Fish on Vimeo.

Redd Alert

I found this on a Fishing forum based on the West Coast Fishery, Not Great Lakes Steelhead where it's common to fish to spawning fish, but it can be a reminder to ALL.

Rod Review - TFO Deer Creek Spey 12'6 5/6

Temple Fork Outfitters - Deer Creek Series Spey Rod. This spey rod has a traditional design by Bob Meiser and Mike Kinney. 

Rod Specifications:

12' 6" 5/6 weighs 7.6oz, 4 piece.  It is rated for 350-550 grains.

I recently got this rod for a client rod and what a fun light rod to fish with.  I have it loaded up with a 425grain Rio Skagit Flight and it will cast 10' of T-11 and decent size weighted fly with some serious flight time.  I mostly fished it with 10' of T-8 and poly leaders, with very little effort this rod will make some really long casts.  Being a 5/6 weight, it is great tool for fighting fish, you really feel the fish and the feel of the take is awesome.  This rod is the perfect Steelhead Spey rod for the Salmon River.

The price point of this rod is $349.95 and accompanied by the "No Fault" warranty, in my book it’s as good as gold, trust me I know. I broke the tip off  another TFO rod in the truck door, sent the rod back with $25 on a Thursday and had it back in 5 working days.

Stan Bogdan passes on.....

I saw this on Clarks classic fly rod forum today:

http://www.flyrodreel.com/blogs/tedwilliams/2011/march/stan-bogdan-dead

The fly fishing community has lost a master reel maker and a great man. In case you've been living under a rock for the past 60 something years, Stan built incredible Salmon reels by hand. Even the screws! Notorious for a 3-4 year wait and a superb drag system, I can personally say they are well worth it. My deepest sympathy goes out to Stephen and his family.

Hang on to your Hackle

Looks there is becoming a shortage of hackle due to the latest women's fashion...Women are buying hackle and clipping it on to the hair as a latest fashion statement.  Really, its no joke...  Some shops are sold out and soon we'll be buying hackle at a salon.  Here is a link to more on the latest trend.

 Feather Heads

Part IV....

Final Steps....

Applying the epoxy thread wrapping finish....

I prefer light build finish for the thread wraps. It is nice and thin, and goes on in 2 coats. The first coat I put enough on to saturate the thread wrap down to the blank. But not so much that it's goopy and messy. This is the most important step in the entire rod building process. MAKE SURE TO MEASURE EQUAL PARTS PRECISELY!!! This is crucial as I've found out the hard way in the past. The finish will turn cloudy, then get clear again when properly mixed. Try to limit air bubbles when mixing since they will end up on your guides!

A little trick I've learned is before mixing the finish epoxy, place the bottles in hot water for a few minutes. This makes the two part epoxy easy to mix and apply. A little goes a long way and if it starts to harden or get gooey toss it and mix another batch to finish the application.

I have a slow turning motor, 6 RPMs. It works but I am going to get a two speed motor of 24 RPMs for applying the finish a little quicker, and 6 RPMs for drying. Let the rod rotate for 8 hours while the finish evens out and dries. After the epoxy is dry, cut off any loose or frayed thread along the guides and then apply the second coat. Let dry another 8-10 hours. You can give it a 3rd coat, but I'm way too impatient for that and you shouldn't really need it.

Here you can see how the wrapping finish darkens the thread color. This is as the first coat is drying....

Butt wraps and some basic info so I don't forget what rod it is....