Salmon River Spey

Tube Fly Hangers

2012-01-11T07:32:00.000-08:00

Tube Fly Hangers are a pretty cool way to keep your tubes neat and organized in your box. They will hold a tube up to almost 2" long and if you have a slotted box like these new Umpqua Streamer boxes, they look quite nice in there.

Circle C Spey Cast

2011-12-13T07:37:00.000-08:00

The "Circle Spey" or "Circle "C" as it is sometimes called can be used as an alternative cast to the single Spey cast, as it is another cast that is much safer then a Snap T when using a fly like a lead eye intruder. This cast should be used in an upstream wind or no wind . It is also a cast that can assist you with your anchor placement if having difficulty with the single Spey.

•A very good cast for consistent anchor placement.

•It can be very useful to raise a sink tip to the surface.

•Can be used to good effect when making a variety of angle changes.

Start with the line downstream and rod tip toward the water.

Lift the rod tip up and draw a "C"

The Anchor will land consistently in the right spot. This shows how safe the rod tip is compared to a Snap T

Come right back to where you started, rod tip facing downstream.

Sweep around just like a single spey cast.

Then let it fly.

Mending

2011-12-05T07:52:00.001-08:00

One of the common mistakes I see while guiding spey anglers is how they mend. Every mend is the same after each cast and after each step. With each step you take down thru a run the current changes, so should your mend(s). To use the quote in Skagit Master II,"Steelhead are a fish of a thousand casts, but not the same thousand casts."

M & M's

2011-11-17T06:16:00.001-08:00

Nothing like starting your day on the water swinging flies with a couple of M & M's - Meiser and Muddler.

Rio's New UniSpey Line

2011-11-01T09:48:00.000-07:00

RIO's UniSpey is the ultimate mid length, general purpose spey line, with three different style options. 1) A fully integrated floating line is ideal for casters that prefer one piece fly lines. 2) The full floating and 3) VersiTip shooting heads are an excellent choice for casters that like the versatility of switching between shooting heads. This short film shows the UniSpey in action, and illustrates the different models available.

Swing Time....

2011-10-31T18:39:00.000-07:00

Some egg suckers resting on my Bougle

Gotta love this time of year. The river is full of leaves, cool mornings have arrived, and the river is full of fish. Dead fish, half dead fish, and LOTS of fish dropping eggs everywhere. Even though there are a boatload of Steelhead in the river, they are keyed in on pretty much one thing only-EGGS. Unfortunately for us who swing flies, this poses a big hurdle. Watching pinners and egg bouncers hammer fish all around us is one of the most frustrating issues to contend with, but we can also learn from them. Watch where they are finding fish, watch how they are fishing.

Try this: instead of the normal down and across approach, cast across the river or slightly upstream. Kick in a big mend and let 'er sink and dead drift. Usually you will get a take as the fly is sinking, before it begins to actually swing. Try to keep a tight line throughout the sink early in the swing. Egg sucking leeches work really well this time of year also. Lastly, don't overlook the fast pocket water. This is where the MOW tip systems works really really well combined with a weighted fly. Don't be afraid to experiment and try various casting angles. The fish are there, we just need to adjust to the conditions in order to bring a few to the bank.

Oh Mother Nature

2011-09-07T04:58:00.000-07:00

Spey Rod, Check....Sinktip Wallets, Check....Large weighted flies, Check......Plenty of water, Check....Blow off a sick day at work, Check...

It's time to swing it deep, Swing it slow and hold the hell on!!!

Rio's New Scandi Short

2011-09-01T09:35:00.000-07:00

Rio's new Scandi Short VersiTip.......Maybe it should be called Skandi Short instead. Take a look.

5 Tips - Swinging for Kings

2011-08-18T11:50:00.000-07:00

Jeff with a Big October Salmon River King

Salmon Season is just right around the corner for us here in the Northeast. Every Fishing Forum is seeing a lot of traffic along with Face book pages for that first King to be caught. If you plan on swinging flies for kings this season here are 5 tips to help you.

Cast down and across - With lower flows, a shallow river and heavy flies you don't need to straight across and mend the heck out of it to get it down to King level.
Keep the fly line in a straight line - Kings like the fly slow and in their face. Cast, mend and hang on.
Don't set to quick - A king take is head shake, head shake, pull and turn. Wait for the pull before you set the hook. Remember to set low and hard to the bank.
Put the boots to them - Kings are big, strong fish. The longer the fight lasts, the longer the hook has to work itself free. After the first run or two, Walk backwards and get yourself near the bank. This will help get the fish into shallow water and make it easier to land.
Revive the fish - Water temperatures are pretty warm in early September, take the time to revive the fish and make sure they swim off on their own.

Pineville Bridge progress

2011-07-27T08:31:00.001-07:00

Here is a picture of the New Pineville Bridge on July 24th. The water is flowing at 750 cfs in this shot from the north side of the Salmon River.

White Mouse

2011-06-30T05:05:00.000-07:00

"The White Mouse"

That spray of water is called "The White Mouse" it's a big part of Spey casting.

Perfect Fly

2011-06-29T06:50:00.001-07:00

This fly has been very productive on the Salmon River, is it the perfect fly? No pun intended.

Start Them Young

2011-06-22T18:22:00.000-07:00

"LOCKED"

11 Year old Jessica locked in to a fish with a spey rod on the Salmon River. Jessica is on her second year with the two handed rod and loves skating dry flies for trout in the summer.

What's in the vise???

2011-05-19T04:58:00.001-07:00

Salmon River Caddis-

Hook: AJ size 5
Thread: UTC 140
Tag: Med Holographic Tinsel
Body: Brown Mini flat braid
Wing: Squirrel tail
Hackle: Brown saddle hackle

This is a good fly for the Summer on the Salmon River fished on a floating line.

Spey Nation - June 25, 2011

2011-05-10T07:20:00.000-07:00

Spey Nation offers the unique opportunity for enthusiasts and manufacturers of 2 handed rods to gather in a streamside setting. The Location is the Pineville Boat Launch on the Salmon River in Pineville, NY. And yes, the rumors are true; we are sending one of you to British Columbia again in April of 2012 courtesy of The Spey Lodge!

Spey Nation features a full BBQ sponsored by the Oak Orchard Flyshop, raffles, “On the water” demonstrations, and interaction with some of the biggest names in 2 handed casting from the East and West Coasts. Mixing styles, knowledge, and backgrounds, Great Lakes anglers finally have the opportunity to learn Traditional Spey, Scandinavian, and Skagit techniques from the experts, try specialized equipment on the water and talk with other fishermen in an atmosphere dedicated exclusively to 2-handed casting while enjoying a burger and a brew. Please visit and support our supporters.

The Spey Lodge, Frank Swarner III, Paul’s Guide Service, The West Branch Angler,Scott, Guideline, CND, CF Burkheimer, Airflo, Wild Water Fly Rods, Orvis, The Spey Company, Hardy, Temple Forks Outfitters, Echo, JP Ross, Buelah, Sage, Thomas And Thomas, Ross Reels, No Float Stix, Castle Arms/Heritage Fly Rods, Hatch Reels, Loop Fly Fishing, DTX Mackenzie, Mad River Dubbing Company, The Red Shed Fly Shop, Malindas Fly Shop, Isle-Fish Guide Service, Snake River Oufitters, Tight Lines Fly Shop, The Oak Orchard Fly Shop, River Time Guide Service, Cattaraugus Creek Outfitters, Neversink River Fly Fishing Guide Service.

- Paul

Spring Time High Water Fishing

2011-04-28T08:52:00.000-07:00

We all know its going to happen, it’s just a matter of when. Hopefully sooner in the season then later. Some of my best springtime days have been in really big water and this year we sure have had some crazy flow rates. Fishing big water is not as intimidating as it may look, but safety must be the number one concern for Anglers.

Lets break the river down to find fish in high water. Obviously this is not easy but we can narrow it down quickly. The heavy river current will push fish out of there normal holding spots and force them to the soft pockets along the riverbanks. By skipping over the pools and deep water you have eliminated 90% of the river. Now spend your time fishing the other 10% of the river. With the fish hugging the riverbanks they will find there way up the diversions and side channels, some of the side channels on the Salmon River a plenty big enough to swing flies in. With Steelhead holding along the riverbank approach the river with caution, start fishing at your feet (on the bank). The number one mistake that most anglers make is to reach the river and wade out over the knees. If the spawn has begun even in very little visibility Steelhead have a habit of giving themselves away. Look for a cloud of mud, this can give away an active spawning female on a redd or dark shadows on the bottom, fish for the active males downstream of the female. These males are very territorial and will smash large flies that pass in front of them. Fish will also hold on the inside seams of corners, in front of diversions and below a point of an island where the water forms a "V" in the current. Look for a current break below fallen tree's (Ellis Cove is a good example).

You can beef up your tackle in the big water, Steelhead are not going to be line shy now, 12lb to even 15lb Maxima wouldn't be to heavy for high colored water. Just because the water levels are high doesn't mean you need to fish heavier tips either. You are fishing soft slower water now, Having a fly with a big profile and alot of movement, fished very slow is the ticket for for success.

So the next time the rivers go high and off color don’t be intimidated, go fish! Just breakdown the river and remember safety is the number one priority.

Scott Howell's Squidro Intruder

2011-04-20T10:24:00.000-07:00

Scott Howell's Squidro Steelhead Fly from Leland Fly Fish on Vimeo.

Redd Alert

2011-04-05T07:06:00.000-07:00

I found this on a Fishing forum based on the West Coast Fishery, Not Great Lakes Steelhead where it's common to fish to spawning fish, but it can be a reminder to ALL.

Rod Review - TFO Deer Creek Spey 12'6 5/6

2011-04-04T08:21:00.000-07:00

Temple Fork Outfitters - Deer Creek Series Spey Rod. This spey rod has a traditional design by Bob Meiser and Mike Kinney.

Rod Specifications:

12' 6" 5/6 weighs 7.6oz, 4 piece. It is rated for 350-550 grains.

I recently got this rod for a client rod and what a fun light rod to fish with. I have it loaded up with a 425grain Rio Skagit Flight and it will cast 10' of T-11 and decent size weighted fly with some serious flight time. I mostly fished it with 10' of T-8 and poly leaders, with very little effort this rod will make some really long casts. Being a 5/6 weight, it is great tool for fighting fish, you really feel the fish and the feel of the take is awesome. This rod is the perfect Steelhead Spey rod for the Salmon River.

The price point of this rod is $349.95 and accompanied by the "No Fault" warranty, in my book it’s as good as gold, trust me I know. I broke the tip off another TFO rod in the truck door, sent the rod back with $25 on a Thursday and had it back in 5 working days.

Stan Bogdan passes on.....

2011-03-28T14:30:00.000-07:00

I saw this on Clarks classic fly rod forum today:

http://www.flyrodreel.com/blogs/tedwilliams/2011/march/stan-bogdan-dead

The fly fishing community has lost a master reel maker and a great man. In case you've been living under a rock for the past 60 something years, Stan built incredible Salmon reels by hand. Even the screws! Notorious for a 3-4 year wait and a superb drag system, I can personally say they are well worth it. My deepest sympathy goes out to Stephen and his family.

Hang on to your Hackle

2011-03-24T06:08:00.000-07:00

Looks there is becoming a shortage of hackle due to the latest women's fashion...Women are buying hackle and clipping it on to the hair as a latest fashion statement. Really, its no joke... Some shops are sold out and soon we'll be buying hackle at a salon. Here is a link to more on the latest trend.

Feather Heads

Part IV....

2011-02-28T16:51:00.000-08:00

Final Steps....

Applying the epoxy thread wrapping finish....

I prefer light build finish for the thread wraps. It is nice and thin, and goes on in 2 coats. The first coat I put enough on to saturate the thread wrap down to the blank. But not so much that it's goopy and messy. This is the most important step in the entire rod building process. MAKE SURE TO MEASURE EQUAL PARTS PRECISELY!!! This is crucial as I've found out the hard way in the past. The finish will turn cloudy, then get clear again when properly mixed. Try to limit air bubbles when mixing since they will end up on your guides!

A little trick I've learned is before mixing the finish epoxy, place the bottles in hot water for a few minutes. This makes the two part epoxy easy to mix and apply. A little goes a long way and if it starts to harden or get gooey toss it and mix another batch to finish the application.

I have a slow turning motor, 6 RPMs. It works but I am going to get a two speed motor of 24 RPMs for applying the finish a little quicker, and 6 RPMs for drying. Let the rod rotate for 8 hours while the finish evens out and dries. After the epoxy is dry, cut off any loose or frayed thread along the guides and then apply the second coat. Let dry another 8-10 hours. You can give it a 3rd coat, but I'm way too impatient for that and you shouldn't really need it.

Here you can see how the wrapping finish darkens the thread color. This is as the first coat is drying....

Butt wraps and some basic info so I don't forget what rod it is....

Part III...

2011-02-27T16:20:00.000-08:00

Marking and Wrapping the guides...

Ok, so the butt section is finished. Now it's time to mark the guides, tape them in place, and finally wrap them with thread. I have only a few colors of thread so I chose Gunmetal Grey. It looks bright but the color dulls significantly after the thread wrap epoxy is applied. I don't use Color Preserver before the epoxy, it's just one more step I can avoid! Plus it prevents the epoxy from seeping into the thread and creating a durable bond. Just my preference...

After glueing the tip top on, next we need to measure the guide spacing and mark it. I happen to have the spacing for a 10' rod, so I just adjusted as I saw fit for the 11' rod. I had a few extra guides so it worked out well. Measurements are from the tip top working towards the butt section. I used double foot REC Recoil guides and strippers for this rod, mainly because I already had a set and a spacing chart. Supposedly the are unbreakable-I can say for sure I will be able to test that out very soon!

After the guides are marked, I like to tape them in place with masking tape. Put the rod together, give a quick look to make sure they are straight along the rod and then time to wrap!

Let the wrapping begin! I just have a hand wrapper, but you can get motorized ones that are much faster. But it's kinda cool to do it by hand!

Snake guides...

I used double foot REC Recoil guides and strippers for this rod, mainly because I already had a set and a spacing chart. Supposedly the are unbreakable-I can say for sure I will be able to test that out very soon!

Ferrule wrap and stripping guide......

Winding check on and butt wraps complete. Nothing fancy here.

After all the guides are on, I give it one last look to make sure everything is straight before the thread wrapping epoxy is applied....

Part II

2011-02-26T03:39:00.001-08:00

After the epoxy has dried, time for the lathe to shape the bottom grip and the reel seat. I put about 1" of masking tape around the blank where the chuck will hold it. This keeps the chuck from crushing the blank. I then add some tape from that point to the top just to help prevent scratches while sanding the handles.

Into the lathe for sanding......

Bottom grip and reel seat complete and slip rings installed. I had to remove the rod from the lathe a few times to get everything just right for the rings. No big deal but it was a little extra time compared to a normal reel seat...

Next slide on the top grip rings and epoxy the same as the lower grip. Set in the clamp for another 6 hours or so before sanding. I like to use the 1" of upper grip per foot of rod. SO, for this 11' rod I used 11" of upper grip. The lower grip is 3 3/4". When building your own rod, you can make them as long or short as you like!

After 20 minutes of sanding and shaping on the lathe, the upper grip is finished! Again, you can shape the cork to your liking. But remember that you can't add more cork for diameter once you've sanded it. So I like to take it off the lathe and hold it in my hands until it feels just right!!

And a photo of what it looks like with my 3 7/8 Perfect attached.....I made the reel seat long enough to accommodate long feet on the old reels just in case I get another Perfect for this rod.

Building a rod....Part I

2011-02-25T10:32:00.000-08:00

Since I haven't been able to fish in about 8 weeks, I need to do something fishing related! So I figured I'd build another rod. Having Steelhead and Salmon pretty much covered for two handers, I decided to build an inland Trout two hander I can also use on Smallies. In an effort to keep the project under $100, I needed an inexpensive blank-enter Anglers Roost! I bought the 11' 2/3 wt blank, $35 including shipping. Supposedly like lines in the 180-235 grain window-how cool?!! It's a 3 piece, full flexing light weight blank I will build into a two hander. So here goes.......

Step 1-Spine the blank

This is actually pretty easy. I like to do it a section at a time. You place the section on a flat surface (holding it at about a 45 degree angle) and bend it as you gently roll it across the table. Hold the tip with one hand and use the other hand to slowly roll the blank. You will feel it "jump" along the spine. Mark the spine side and repeat with all sections of the blank. I like to put my guides opposite the spine, some people put their guides on the spine.

Step 2-ream the cork

Using a tapered file purchased at a hardware store, ream out the center of the cork so it fits snugly on the butt section. Doing the grips piece by piece ensure a better fit than trying to ream out a pre made grip. I don't like creaking cork! Here I am doing the bottom handle and "reel seat". I use quotes because on this rod I am doing a sliding band style reel seat. The very bottom piece is rubberized cork for durability. Each piece is 1/2" thick by 1.5" in diameter. I also use fine sandpaper and scuff the blank a little for extra grip before applying the epoxy.

Bottom grip and "reel seat" fitted and ready for Epoxy...

Step 3-Epoxy the cork and then clamp and let dry.....

After mixing the epoxy, use a craft store paint brush to apply the epoxy to the blank and on the cork. Repeat with all the cork on the blank.....

In the clamp to dry for about 6-8 hours......

Bob Clay and Family

2011-02-21T05:34:00.000-08:00

A Steelhead Family - Official HD video 3.1 from Andrew Hardingham on Vimeo.

Bob Clay is known for his bamboo rods and former BC Steelhead guide. This video he talk's about starting out as Guide in BC to the daily in's and out's of rod builing and his steelheading family.

What's In The Vise???

2011-02-20T07:35:00.000-08:00

Hook: AJ 2051 # 5

Body: Purple Ice Dub

Wing: Purple Rabbit

Head: Pink Laser Dub

Try in various color schemes.

A quick easy fly that has plenty of flash and movement, the Ice Dub head creates a nice profile and pushes the water around the fly so the rabbit moves nicely in the current.

Had A Hour To Play

2011-02-08T09:34:00.000-08:00

After taking a break from fishing for the Holiday’s I managed to get out for a short time the other day. We received a few inches of wet, heavy slop overnight and I wasn’t ready to trudge through the snow with only a limited amount of time to fish. I took a quick look at the river down low and saw no slush, Hmmmm, I thought, I need a transitional spot where a hot fish or two maybe resting and there is no shelf ice near shore to hinder me getting access to such a spot. I knew just the place, a resting spot just above some faster water with about 2 foot of depth across most of the spot with a 3 foot bucket with a big boulder in front of it.

So I strung up my switch rod, looped on a 3.9 ips poly leader and tied on a copper prom dress tied on a short tube and got set up in the top of the run. I started out fishing slow and close after working down the run about 20 feet, I was getting into a rhythm as my fly started to get close to the sweet spot. I cast, stepped down and just before the fly started to swing a quick grab…Damn, I knew one would be there… I finished down thru the tailout and made a few extra casts just over the lip incase I backed any fish out of their lie.

Headed back up and tied on a Orange and Pink Trade Secret, started back down thru the spot and just as my fly gets to the same spot where I had the grab on the first pass, bang! A nice bright chrome fish jumps with my fly hanging out of its mouth. A couple of decent short runs and some near shore head shakes, I was able to grab the leader.

Modern Bugger

2011-02-05T04:09:00.000-08:00

This fly is basically a bugger...with a few extras.

Start by putting the cut shank in the vise, add the mono loop

Next, time to build the tail. I used Arctic fox here but you can also use marabou or rabbit. Add a little flash as well.

Add some sleek brown grizzly hackles to complete the tail. I like thin ones since they really wiggle in the water. Wider hackles are ok too.

Tie in your chenille, wire rib, and hackle that will be wrapped bugger style. Here I am using copper chenille and orange grizzly hackle....

Wrap everything forward to the eye. COUNTER wrap the wire rib, this adds an incredible amount of durability to the fly and allows multiple fish on a fly before the body hackle breaks.

Next take some Black Rhea and either put it in a dubbing loop, or you can do what I did here. Split your thread with a needle, and stuff the trimmed end between the thread fibers. Spread out the Rhea, give your bobbin a good spin to tighten everything, and then wrap the Rhea as a collar. Some of the Rhea will point forward after this step, that's just fine. Pull it back into position over the fly and secure with thread. I like to use flat waxed thread for this trick. I prefer this over a dubbing loop, it's faster and I have more thread control.

Here is what it will look like after all the Rhea has been carefully wrapped into place and secured. Leave it like that and DO NOT fold it down and secure, this will cause the Rhea to lay flat against the fly in the water. We want it to poke out and get washed around by the current, this equals movement!!

Next pick a nice long webby feather from a Pheasant skin. Or any long webby feather of your choice.

Wrap it on as a collar. I don't peel one side of the feather before I wrap it on. This will give a sparse profile to the fly. I like to dress my flies full, and pluck feathers off while on the river if I feel the need for a more sparse profile. Add lead eyes if you wish......

Now time for a wing. Hackle feathers are fine for this as is just about anything you want. Here I am using the burnt orange/brown feather from a Jungle Cock. Pick 2 that are close to matching and tie them in.

This pic shows the JC tied in and I also added a finishing collar of Arctic fox spun the same way I did the Rhea. By splitting the waxed thread with a needle and stuffing the ends between the thread. Again, this can be done using a dubbing loop as well...whip finish and cement.

Top view...

View from the bottom......

Side by side on the Taupo.....

This style of fly can be tied in a ton of various color combos. Some of my favorite are; Brown/copper (the one here), black/purple, Olive, Olive/black, PINK!!!!!!!! hint hint, all Black, and pink purple. Have fun and experiment, just remember to hold on when you fish them!

Skagit Double Spey

2011-01-24T05:01:00.000-08:00

Skagit Double Spey from Zack Brooks on Vimeo.
Here is the Skagit Double Spey. Notice how close my line lays to me, maximum power with ease! First at regular speed, second part is slow motion. Enjoy!

Here is a short video clip of the Skagit Double Spey. Enjoy.

Downstream Perry Poke

2011-01-22T04:57:00.000-08:00

Downstream Perry Poke from Zack Brooks on Vimeo.

Here is a short clip of the Downstream Perry Poke. First at regular speed, then some slow motion of the same cast. Enjoy.

The Downstream Perry Poke. Enjoy.

Underwater Steelie Video

2011-01-20T10:32:00.000-08:00

I forgot I had taken this video footage with my underwater case for the video camera. Check out the visibility in 750 cfs.....Enjoy!

Underwater Steelie Video from Zack Brooks on Vimeo.

This video was taken in 750cfs. Check out how far you can actually see underwater. This big buck was in the mid teens even though you can't really tell from the video. Taken on a really small fly.

Handling fish and pictures....

2011-01-19T13:40:00.000-08:00

Here is an article I found on Skagitmaster.com, and it was written by Jeff Mishler. LEAVE THE FISH IN THE WATER. Pretty simple, yet even most guys I know don't do this for their Hero shots. Even though we have a Hatchery Fishery, this article still has it's place.

This is a reprint of an article I wrote for a fishing magazine last April, but since we're at the beginning of winter steelhead season, it's a timely reminder of our roles in conserving the last wild ones: Keep Them In The Water!

HOW MANY WILD STEELHEAD DID YOU KILL THIS YEAR?

By Jeff Mishler

Let’s just say for the purpose of this piece that you’re a catch and release angler. You release all wild steelhead, salmon and trout because, well, it’s the law on most rivers here in the pacific northwest and more importantly, an angler concerned about the future of the sport, mostly likely, has come to realize that the future of any fishery lies in the preservation of genetic diversity which can only be ensured through abundant wild adult escapement. Releasing wild fish keeps the gene pool rolling along its natural way. And while some anglers are good at catching fish and others are not, it’s very probable that some anglers catch a lot of wild fish because they target them specifically; for whatever reason, they ignore the put and take fishery available to sport fishermen in most states and choose to pursue wild fish presumably using tackle and techniques that minimize mortality of the resource.

No angler of good intentions wants to admit that their catch and release routine, routinely kills wild fish. But these routines are often old habits passed down the family line and they can be hard to break, even if they negatively impact the resource we think we are protecting.

Consider the following scenario:

It’s early March. You and a buddy are drift fishing for winter steelhead on one of Oregon’s many coastal rivers. You hook six steelhead, land four and released all of them because most of the fish in the system at this time of year are in fact wild. Three of the steelhead you landed, you hooked drifting a pearl/pink corkie with a single hook and one of the steelhead was hooked after you threaded a sandshrimp under the corkie rig. Let’s say you are fishing from a drift boat. The water is high and off-color making it difficult to find a place to step to shore. So, for every fish hooked, you had to fight them longer than usual because the swift current made it difficult to bring the fish alongside the boat. Each fish hung in the current downstream from the bow until it was exhausted---In fact, that is when you lost the other two. You were certain they were ready, but they made one last turn away from the boat, towards the shore and the direction of pull on the line changed. The hook pulled free and those two got away---But not the other four. After three attempts, your buddy slides a net under the steelhead and hauls it into the boat. It flops around a bit but you eventually unhooked the size 1 bait hook from the corner of its mouth. You hold the steelhead up for a picture or two and then slide the fish over the side. You hold it upright for a moment because that’s what they say you should do to revive a tired fish, but it kicks out of your hand and swims off. Let’s just say the four steelhead you landed responded similarly. From your perspective, it would be reasonable to assume that all of the steelhead survived after release because they did in fact swim off on their own.

Could you believe that the opposite might be true? More than likely, all four steelhead died from a long-term, delayed mortality, a truth difficult for the angler to confirm because in most instances, death occurs hours, if not days later.

In the previous scenario, you, the angler, made specific choices that directly affected the overall mortality of catch and release fishing. What we do once the hook is set has more bearing on a wild fish’s survival than the gear we choose. Whether we fly fish only or pinch the barbs on our favorite plugs, equipment has little statistical impact on the overall percentage of mortality associated with catch and release---It is widely promoted that a fish hooked in the corner of the mouth or outside the mouth experiences a 3% chance of mortality if it is landed promptly, kept in the water and released quickly. The use of barbed or barbless hooks doesn’t seem to change that percentage significantly. Mortality is determined greatly by our behavior, or habits.

Dr. Bruce Tufts is a professor of biology at Queens University in Kingston, Ontario, Canada. He has studied the physiological effects of catch and release fishing since the late 1980’s. The findings from his research have helped shape catch and release regulations throughout North America.

According to Tufts, factors such as time out of water and length of fight combine to determine a released fish’s chance of survival. In his study, “Physiological Effect of Brief Air Exposure in Exhaustively Exercised Rainbow Trout: Implications for “Catch and Release” Fisheries”, Tufts studied the effect of time out of water periods of zero, 30 and 60 seconds for rainbow trout after exhaustive exercise. In 57-degree water, after 12 hours of recovery time, the control group-- fish that were held in captivity but not exercised--experienced no mortality. The group not exposed to air immediately after exercise experienced 12% mortality. The group exposed to air for 30 seconds after exercise experienced 38% mortality, and the group exposed to air for 60 seconds after exercise experience 72% mortality. 7 out of 10 trout died after 12 hours when exposed to air for 60 seconds.

Tufts concluded, “…the brief period of air exposure which occurs in many “catch and release” fisheries is a significant additional stress which may ultimately influence whether a released fish survives”. According to Tufts’ study, any exposure to air significantly decreases a salmon, trout, or steelhead’s chance for survival.

In the above fishing scenario, how long would it take you to clear the net, unhook the fish, take the pictures and then put the fish back into the river? It is very, very difficult do it in less than a minute. I’ve timed numerous anglers trying to do exactly what I have described and in most instances, it takes two minutes or more once the fish is brought on board. So one might conclude that if 7 out of 10 rainbow trout die after an air exposure of 60 seconds, then 3 of the 4 steelhead netted and brought into the drift boat, died within 12 hrs after release.

Tufts states in a 2004, In-Fisherman, article, “When you remove a fish from water the secondary lamellae in the gills collapse, inhibiting gas exchange”. Tufts and I use similar analogies when trying to explain how detrimental it is to hold a fish out of water for long periods of time after landing it. Imagine running 100 meters as fast as you can and when you cross the finish line someone grabs you my the back of the head and forces it underwater for a minute. What’s your chance of mortality? Salmon, trout and steelhead breathe air about as well as we breath water.

Tufts states in an article published in, Atlantic Salmon Journal, Spring 2001, “There’s No Excuse Not to Stop Killing Salmon” that, “the studies have documented (delayed mortality) in salmon and other species…it is not something that occurs immediately after the period of exhaustive exercise…therefore not something that would be apparent to an angler releasing a fish. Delayed mortality can occur in fish that appear absolutely normal at the start of the recovery period.”

60 seconds out of the water and you’ve killed 7 out of 10 fish. This is somber news.

Additionally, Tufts does not take into account the cumulative affects of removing a fish’s protective slime by netting and bringing the fish on board, increasing the chance of bacterial growth on the skin after release and the accompanying increased stress levels. Nor does he address the mortality impacts of hook placement and the increased blood loss from the most vital organ, the gills, when a fish is hooked inside the mouth on a delicate gill rake. Some states have made laws requiring anglers to use single barbless hooks and to keep fish in the water at all times if it is to be released to reduce the chance for post release mortality.

The whether the capture of wild salmon and steelhead is intentional or accidental, catch and release fishing causes mortality at a rate higher than most well intended anglers could ever imagine. It is possible that the angler who chooses to target wild fish, kills more wild steelhead, salmon or trout than the equally effective angler who chooses his angling opportunities according to the run timing of specific hatchery returns and kills every legal hatchery fish he or she catches; the determinant being the combination of variables the angler has no control over, and a few that one does. If I catch 20 wild steelhead in four days of fishing and handle them carelessly, it is possible that I might have killed 14 of them, six more than the eight fish, four day limit of the angler whacking and stacking hatchery fish. One has to ask, whose behavior is better for the resource?

So, considering the previous angling scenario, the high water day from the drift boat, what could you have done differently to increase the chance of survival for those four wild fish you released?
---First, wear waders if you can. Hip boots are fine. An angler has to get down into the water to properly release a fish. If the water is in fact too high and there is no accessible shore, pull anchor and find calmer water to land the fish.
---Use a net with a rubber or soft mesh. Hard nylon is too hard on the fish. If you can get to shore, slide the fish into the net but leave it in the water. Don’t reef up on the handle and haul it out onto shore. If you net the fish from the boat, don’t bring the fish into the boat. Leave it hanging over the side.
---The fish must stay in the water. Make sure its head is submerged. Get down on your knees, wait for the fish to calm down, and reach in carefully to remove the hook with a pair of pliers.
---Don’t rip the hook out of the mouth. Gently back it out, the direction it went in. Even with a barb, if the hook is lodged in the corner of the mouth or lips, the hook should come out easily with a soft tug.
---If the hook is buried in a gill rake, down in the gullet or buried in the tongue, don’t remove it. The fish’s chances of survival with such a hook placement are reduced as it is. Removing a barbed hook from these areas will certainly kill it. Clip the leader, leaving at least 18 inches trailing outside the mouth and do your best to revive the fish. The old myth that the hook will dissolve over time can be questioned when one uses stainless steel or chrome hooks designed not to rust. (How many shiny hooks have you found hanging in the shoreline brush long after the mono has rotted away?)
---When you are ready to release the fish, gently hold it upright in the current. Don’t move it back and forth. This drives water and sediments under the gill plate from the wrong direction inhibiting the all important gas exchange, effectively smothering the fish.
---When the fish seems ready to go, hold on to it a little longer. Its fins should be erect and its movements positive. Most fish will bolt from the hand out of fear when they start to get their senses back but haven’t recovered enough to hold themselves upright in the current. If allowed to swim away, they often roll over and die under a rock somewhere downstream. This is the “not apparent” part of the delayed mortality Tufts refers to. Yeah they swim off, but some of them die.
---Don’t touch the gills. The angler who puts his fingers into the gills of a fish they plan to release, for whatever reason, has probably killed that fish by damaging the delicate lamellae needed for gas exchange (breathing).

If you want to take a picture of the fish hold it gently at the wrist of the tail while supporting the girth under the pectoral fins. Keep the head in the water while the photographer focuses and sets the exposure. Only when the photographer is ready, when they say so, should you lift the fish out of the water an inch or two. Take the picture and immediately place it back into the water. Reset and repeat if you like. Don’t stand up and hold it out. Stay low. If you drop the fish, it’s close to the water and won’t be injured. How many times have you seen someone drop a squirming fish onto the rocks or into the bottom of the boat? All bad. I can always tell if a fish has been out of the water for a long period of time by the amount of water running off its body. Sadly, most fish are bone dry when pics are taken.

Unfortunately, ego and pride often overtake common sense in those exciting moments when a big wild fish works us over. Taking a fish out of the water is purely a convenience for the angler or guide. Yeah, we want that baby. Gotta get a picture of that bad boy. But, if you fish with the intent of releasing the wild ones, why wouldn’t you, in good conscience, do everything you can to ensure that the trophy you plan to release, realizes its purpose? Go buy the right net. Pinch your barbs. Get out of the boat if you can. Don’t use divers and bait during the wild run. (Gut and gill hooked fish experience 68-80% mortality depending on which study you use) Keep the fish in the water at all times. Fight the fish quickly.

The wild ones are amazing creatures and should be released unharmed to spawn and provide future angling opportunities. It’s our responsibility as stewards and primary users of the resource to make sure that happens. I know that some habits die hard and the processes we’ve used for years are often second nature, but taking additional care when releasing wild fish is just plain ole’ common sense that doesn’t compromise the experience, so why not try. We will all benefit from your effort.

Tying some swap flies....

2011-01-18T08:35:00.000-08:00

Tying up some flies for a swap, and since it's freezing outside I figured I'd tie a fly that makes me feel warm all over. Here is one of my favorite summer patterns. I call it a Copper Demon, and that's just what it is. Gives a stonelfly profile, and the summer stones are BIG. I use them mainly in size 4 (bottom fly). The top two flies are in a size 2. I use a non slip mono loop knot so this little critter can wiggle as it swims helplessly thru a riffle or glassy tailout barely under the surface waiting to get nabbed by a chromer. Fished on a full floating line they are a lot of fun to fish. Cast quartering downstream on a tight line and watch for the boil......then hold on.

Hook: TMC 700 size 2,4, or 6

Tag: Copper flashabou or thin Copper wire

Tail: Few strands of Chartreuse and Orange Schlappen. You can use hackle fibers for this also.

Body: Copper diamond braid with copper wire counter wrapped for durability

Collar: Black Schlappen

Wing: Black Calftail, sparse

Head: Fl. Orange thread

Welding Lines

2011-01-17T08:34:00.000-08:00

Welding your own lines and making new streamlined welded loops at home is incredibly simple. If you can tie a fly, you can weld lines. I bought my welding kit from Poppy at The RedShed Fly shop. It includes a heat gun, some thin running line for loops, and a bunch of different sized shrink tubing. It was $30, a heck of a deal. Here are a few photos of the process.

First, cut a length of tubing material, enough to cover the thin running line and the fly line being welded. Then cut a length of running line to make

a loop. I like to have about 2-3" of over lap for added security.

Next, slide the fly line, and running line material into the plastic shrink tubing and align the running line on either side of the fly line....

Next is the fun part, actually welding the lines together. Set the heat gun to the LOW setting. Let it heat up for about 1 minute. Then put the heat to the line, and make sure to keep the heat gun nozzle about an 1" away from the line. Too close and you will burn the line, creating a weak point in your line that can and will break. You can watch the lines melt together as you go. Do about a 1" section until it's good and melted. Roll it between your fingers or on a hard surface to combine the two lines well. Once the entire weld is completed this way, let it cool and cut off the plastic tubing. Now you have a sweet factory like weld on your loop to loop.

The possibilities are endless with welding. Plus welded loops are much smoother in the guides when a fish is yanking out line than braided loops gooped up with Aquaseal.

Thinking out side the box - Got Popper's??

2011-01-12T10:06:00.000-08:00

Here is a great video from Leland Fly Fishing Outfitters and Scott Howell on fishing Popper's.

Ska-opper video

What's in the Vise?

2011-01-11T12:22:00.000-08:00

Trade Secret

Hook: bass stinger cut shank
Trailer: #2 Octopus on 40# braid
Butt: fl. pink seal (or angora)
Tail: mix of pink/orange/blue LA fibers under sparse pearl KF
Body: fl. orange (3)/bubblegum pink(2)/red marabou wrapped(1)
Hackle: mix of pink/blue LA fibers

Note: try various color schemes

Like us on Facebook

2011-01-08T09:16:00.000-08:00

The Fly Fishing Show

2011-01-06T11:59:00.000-08:00

   Garden State Convention Center - Somerset, New Jersey.

   January 21, 22, 23 2011.

   Show Hours: Fri 10 - 6; Sat 8:30 - 6:00; Sun 9 - 4:30

   Ton's of Celebrities, Author's, Fly tyer's, Program's, Seminar's and Exhibitors.

   The Fly Fishing Show

Stay Committed

2010-12-22T11:59:00.000-08:00

Sticking too it

Over the last month I have guided a lot of people new to spey casting and spey fishing. Trying to convert yourself to getting a steelhead on the swing when your fishing buddies are fishing with other techniques and catching all the fish is tough. You need to stick with it and commit yourself; it will all come together in time. You can catch 20 steelhead under a float and a bead, every drop of the float is the same, not one really stands out. You get 10 takes on the swing with a tight line to the fly and you remember every awesome grab, granted swinging flies isn’t a numbers thing but you can very successful even in 33 degree water.

What's In The Vise??

2010-12-08T10:49:00.000-08:00

A new feature on Salmon River Spey is "What's In The Vise." Want to see what were tying? The good, The Bad and The Very Ugly, from simple "Guide Flies" to more traditional Spey flies.

Rhea Egg Sucking Leech

Hook: Alec Jackson 3/0 cut

Tail: Purple Marabou

Hackle: Purple, Palmered

Body: Purple SLF Dubbing

Collar: Purple Rhea

Feelers: Purple Lady Amherest

Head: Pink Laser Dubbing

You can tie these in wide range of colors.

Skagit Master Volume 2 Featuring Scott Howell

2010-12-08T09:03:00.000-08:00

The long awaited Volume 2 is almost out, checkout the new trailer.

Stay shallow, cast further

2010-12-06T13:06:00.000-08:00

about as deep as you want to wade

I just want to share an observation regarding line management and wading depth in high water flows. There are a few occasions when wading deep is necessary, like when using long lines. You may have to wade away from the bank unless you want to single spey all day long. I see more and more anglers wading out into the river at least knee to mid thigh immediately upon entering the river! This can not only spook those early fish sitting close to the bank (the easy ones), but also can cause problems with casting. As you wade deeper, you need to adjust some things in the casting stroke because the path of your rod tip is now a little closer to the water. No biggie but needs to be addressed for sure.

With Skagit lines, we obviously have to strip in line and this results in loops of line dangling in the water. Loops of running line in the water mean more resistance on the flight of my skagit head, which in the end equals a sacrifice in distance. So I have discovered that by wading calf deep to just above my knees, far less of my running line sits in the swirly currents below me. I figure this allows me to have an extra loop and a half of running line to shoot. For me this is about 6 strips, or somewhere around 20ft. Yes, I have measure how much line I pull in on each strip! This allows me to judge my casting distance with very good accuracy. SO, I ask you, is wading out an extra 3 feet towards the middle of the river worth 20ft less distance?? Not to me. Now don't get me wrong, there are times when I am belly deep into the river. However this is more for presentation and angles than trying to cast across the river.

So try to stay shallow when you can, I promise you will gain more distance on your cast no matter what type of line system you fish and you may even pick up an extra fish or two.

2010-12-06T13:03:00.000-08:00

Better quality video than before:

Untitled from Zack Brooks on Vimeo.

Muddy Chrome

2010-12-04T10:36:00.000-08:00

Now this is what a Steelhead on the swing is supposed to be like:

Mono Alternative

2010-12-02T13:46:00.000-08:00

Product Review: Rio Shooting line

Having used mono shooting line behind my Skagit head for about 6 months now, I can say I love the stuff. I did however run into some coils and twisting recently on a cold morning and it kinda scared me for this winter so I bought some Rio powerflex mono core shooting line. I remember Scott O'Donnell using the stuff back when the Skagiteers were here. I asked him why he doesn't use mono and his reply was: because I want to feel like I'm fly fishing. I got quite a chuckle out of that one. So I figured I'd give it a shot. Well, it's great! It has a 25lb mono core with a thin coating of something that feels like a fly line, with a cold water supple coating to help limit tangles. Overall thickness is that of 40lb mono, REALLY thin-exactly what I want. It is 100 ft long and comes with a nice big loop at the business end.

Having used it on some below freezing mornings I have notices that it does want to coil coming off the spool, but can be fished this way with no issues. However, a quick pull to stretch it out as you pull it off the reel solves this problem pronto. It then becomes a super thin, non tangling shooting line with the advantages of mono but feels like "flyline". I have the thinnest they make in the cold water coating, .024. I will still use my mono shooting line without a doubt, but this stuff gives a nice alternative to those who "want to feel like they're fly fishing".

First day back...

2010-11-14T04:15:00.000-08:00

Here is a short clip of my first venture back into flowing water in over 3 weeks. Been down with a disc issue in my lower back. Casting was a bit rusty, but I did manage to break in my new 2010 Taupo Perfect, which isn't as loud as my originals but she'll work just fine. I just need more time on the water with it so she gets that lovely patina of an old hard used reel overflowing with soul and purpose. I was also late on the hook set but as you can see it didn't matter in the end. Watch as my rod bobs 3 times before I set. Oh well, thankfully the fish hooked himself.

Gear Set-up:

2010 Hardy Taupo Perfect

11'7" 5/6/7 Meiser MKS (custom built) 400-600 grain window

425 Rio Skagit Flight (really weighs 441 grains)

10 ft T-14

10lb Maxima tippet material

My Beloved Taupo

2010-11-13T09:00:00.000-08:00

The above photo shows the change in check system. On the left is the modern, convertible LHW to RHW check mechanism. While on the right you will see the original MKII check in the 1958-62 Taupos, which are RHW only. You can also see in this photo the difference in bearings between the two reels as well.

A shot of the exterior changes from the original Taupos to the modern version. The picture above shows a modern Taupo sandwiched between two originals. Note the lineguide version on the right. You can see the leading they now use is also a bit different.

I gotta start by saying I am a gear junkie, specifically Hardy Perfects. They are, well, perfect. Nothing beats the sound of a fish pulling line on a loud Perfect. Click and pawl reels also require more interaction by the angler. Some people will say "Yeah but they have no drag". It's true that click and pawl style reels have just enough resistance to prevent spool overrun. HOWEVER, when an angler knows how to use a palming reel, you can go to full lockdown. Meaning when you palm the back of the spool, you can hold it as tight or loose as you wish. You can actually apply more "drag" than the best disc drag system on the market and this system requires very little attention. A little grease on the pawl, gear, and spring once every 6 months of hard use and you're good to go.

Now onto the Taupo Perfect! The Taupo was originally made by Hardy from 1958-1962 only. They were built for the large rainbows and browns in Lake Taupo New Zealand, which required a larger reel than the standard 3 7/8 trout Perfect. The Taupo is wider than the narrow trout Perfects, yet not as wide as the wide drum Salmon Perfects. The originals had an optional lineguide. The Taupo is sweet on two handers from 11' up to 12'6". They will hold 120 yards of 30lb dacron and a mid belly line, 150 yds of 30 lb plus 125 ft of mono shooting line and the skagit or scandi line of your choice. They are Right Hand Wind only.

Hardy recently released a modern version of the reel. It has the same specs, 3 7/8" diameter with a 1" spool width. They did change some things however. Now they are convertible LHW or RHW, the new Taupos also have a ivorine type handle, smaller bearing race, and a screw on the back of the spool like the old salmon reels. They are also about an ounce lighter than the originals.

Once you fish with a click and pawl reel, I can assure you that you will rapidly ditch the modern disc drag reels that offer barely a whisper of inspiration while hooked into a fresh Steelhead cartwheeling and screaming down stream!

The International Fly Tying Symposium

2010-11-05T05:00:00.000-07:00

It's that time of the of the year when the Fly Fishing Show's start, the first one is The International Fly Tying Symposium in Somerset NJ. This is the Worlds largest show for fly tying, if you are looking for hard to find feather's, tool's, hook's this is the place to find them. Plus watch some of the best fly tiers in the world, take a class & plenty of programs to watch.

Rain

2010-11-04T05:29:00.000-07:00

Since the Flood last month we have had great flows in the river. The river has been running at 750cfs with another 200cfs of run-off in the system, this has made for good flows for the wading angler as well as the drift boats. So lets get out there and chase some Steelhead with two hands before Ole' man Winter really sets in..

Ross Reach Switch Rods for 2011

2010-10-27T05:00:00.000-07:00

Ross Reach Spey Rods -

The ReachTM spey rod series was designed with the help of an underground group of soulful spey junkies that eat, sleep and breathe big water, big fish and two-handed rods. Our goal was very simple - produce a series of spey rods that will handle a full range of fly line types and successfully execute all types of spey and Skagit casts. Mission accomplished! This 4-piece, fast action rod series is made from our proprietary R4 graphite design, resulting in a series that is lightweight, powerful and precise. The rods load deep into the core, allowing for a fast action design that still maintains casting sensitivity and tremendous line control. The Reach series easily covers big water, be it with AFS, Skagit style or longer bellied spey lines. This lightweight rod series is easily cast by anglers of all skill levels. Once you have experienced the sensitivity, responsiveness and performance of this series, you will be left wondering why it doesn't cost twice as much. Hey, a spey junky still has to eat, right?

- The ReachTM spey rod series comes with the following standard features:
- Ross proprietary R4 graphite design
- Fast action rod taper, perfect for all types of spey and Skagit casts
- 4-piece design - great for travel
- Smooth casting, powerful and precise
- Titanium oxide, super strong guides
- Rod piece alignment dots
- Anodized aluminum reel seat
- Two-handed spey handle with fighting butt
- Cordura rod case
- Lifetime warranty

5109-4   10'9"    4 Piece       5WT      $359.00.

6113-4    11'3"    4 Piece        6WT      $379.00.

7119-4    11'9"    4 Piece       7WT      $379.00.

For more Ross Products check out their site.

RIO SWITCH LINE for 2011

2010-10-26T05:00:00.000-07:00

RIO Switch line

New for 2011
RIO's Switch line is designed for a multitude of applications for anglers using Switch rods. The long head and thick diameter tip turns over big flies and indicator rigs while allowing anglers to throw mends and control the fly's drift at great distance. The front taper and weight distribution form tight loops with minimum of effort, also enabling anglers to cast streamers and sinking VersiLeaders. The perfect all round line for Switch rods.

Sizes: 4/5, 5/6, 6.7, 7/8 & 8/9
Length: 100 ft (30.5m)

Color:Beige/Pale green.

This should be a very popular line for the Salmon River Switch Rod angler.

River Etiquette

2010-10-25T07:18:00.001-07:00

Here’s the Dean River Angler’sCreed, as posted at the airstripnear the mouth of the river. This is a pretty good set of commitments to make on anyriver, wouldn’t you say?

Dean River Anglers’ Creed

I will:

respect the river, its fish and fellow anglers.
share the water and practice rotation angling.
park my vehicle out of sight and sound of other anglers.
keep my camp clean and bearproof.
leave only my footprints: my garbage goes out with me.
be careful with my campfire.
maintain a pit toilet and not foul the river.
give wading anglers a wide berth with my powerboat.
not discharge firearms unnecessarily.
respect and not harass wildlife.

I found this on Deneki's blog. Lack of river side etiquette is rampant on all rivers and streams. I think it is just an extension of our current society and I'm more than certain this lack of etiquette carries over into their everyday lives.

The Fall Swing: Keep it High and Tight!

2010-10-23T07:04:00.000-07:00

As I enjoy a day off the water, I find myself pondering the steelhead swing on our unique, dynamic, shallow river. Two very common mistakes I see anglers make is the depth of their presentation, and lack of tension. I believe these are rooted in the Salmon River tradition of drifting flies.

Steelhead, as all fish, are built to look up an away-using a "cone of vision." This cone grows in radius as the depth increases, so the fish can see farther away the deeper the water is. Logically, the swung fly will draw more fish when the number of fish exposed to the fly is increased. By simply shifting the depth of the swing up in the water column, you will allow more fish to see your creation, and for a longer period of time. A drifted fly should be "with the fish" as the intent is to make it easy for the fish to eat-however we are not trying to make it easy when we swing, that would result in lost tips and boring bites. Who wants that!? I firmly believe the angler will recieve better bites, and more of them, when they lighten the load and swing higher in the column. Temperatures need to be factored, as does depth and speed of the current when selecting tips. However, it is rarely necessary to plummet to the depths, the steelhead we want will come to the fly. I find that a proper swing depth has a certain feel to it-when the hairs on my neck stand erect, then I know I have the right tip. Once I gain that feel I stick with the tip unless the conditions change very drastically. I will make minor adjustments by shifting my cast angle or how I lead or follow the swing with my rod tip. I want my fly as high in the water as the fish will move! It's a game of chess, but for me, the quality of the take is more important than the number of takes. My efforts are directed at finding that area of the column that will be up near the maximum distance the fish will move, but just close enough to them to get consistent results.

Tension on your fly is absolutely required in order for the fly to come to life and attract fish. Tension should be established immediately after the cast, or the pull mend if required, and sustained throughout the entire drift. One of the magical properties of swinging flies is that you can incorporate all of your senses into the experience. By learning to "feel" the water against your fly, you can free your mind to smell, listen, taste, and hear the river environment as your fly does its work. I see too many anglers cast upstream, toss repeated mends, and swing spaghetti with tiny flies. Simply put, that approach is limiting their success; the fly is not alive since it is not under tension, and with all the slack bite detection in minimal at best. Even if you did get, and detect, a bite it would be BORING! You would be better drifting the fly in a straight line path to maximize response time. A swung fly needs to be seen for an extended period of time (read: ABOVE the fish), and it needs to be ALIVE (read: under tension).

So, next time out try swinging high and tight!

When it all comes together

2010-10-20T10:02:00.000-07:00

Paul aka "Fish Tech" laying out a nice cast.

You spend hour upon hour hour practicing the lift, anchor placement, watching the D-loop, the sweep, the foward casting stroke and trying to figure out how to hold all the loops of running line, but when it all comes together its a sexy thing..

What more could you ask for

2010-10-19T06:48:00.000-07:00

We got all the bases covered, two handed spey rod, skagit line, a MOW tip, some Hot ass flies and a pimped out Drift Boat. Just add some prime water = Fish on!

Anchors and fast water.....

2010-10-14T11:14:00.001-07:00

Fishing the fast water this time of year is absolutely necessary, and productive. Especially with the Rio MOW tips. I used to pass up this type of water because I wanted to fish the classic runs and pools. But ended up getting crowded out of the "classic" runs in the fall. So I started hitting the pockets and faster areas. Whoa, was I nuts. With water temps around the low 50's, Steelhead can be found in the pockets and faster water. Sometimes in really fast water. But this type of water can create havoc with your anchor placement, whether it's an upstream anchor or downstream anchor.

There are a few things that can help remedy this while providing maximum casting performance out of Sustained Anchor casting (skagit casting). On an upstream anchor you can simply place your anchor a few feet further upstream than normal. This will give you the time to complete the cast into the sweep, 45 thrust, and turnover before your anchor is swept back down to you by the current. This is fine and the only drawback I have found with this is that it requires a fairly significant change in how I lift and drag my line into the set. I like to keep things as consistent as possible. So, on the upstream Perry Poke, after I set the anchor, I don't let my rod tip hit the water like I normally would on that cast during the stop, or "poke" portion of the cast. I find that the faster current not only helps grab the line and create water tension immediately, but it does a good job of keeping it there as well. This will aid in "blown anchors". Same with a down stream Poke. I like to drop the rod tip down within 3' or so of the water instead of INTO the water as you would in a normal Poke.

Don't overlook the faster water, heavy chops or pocket white water. With the proper presentation and frisky Steelhead, you'll be surprised at the results. Plus it's a fun challenge managing line, anchors, and getting a good presentation in fast water.

Salmon River Sport Shop

2010-10-11T07:33:00.000-07:00

The Salmon River Sport Shop located at the Short Bridge in the center of Pulaski is now carrying RIO Spey products. They also have a good selection of spey flies that have arrived and just need to be put in stock. So if your if your fishing the lower end of the river and are in need of spey gear, check them out.

After the Flood -

2010-10-04T13:10:00.000-07:00

Looks we'll be fishing a whole new river, learning it all over. At the present time the river is very muddy still, be safe.

Swinging for Kings

2010-09-10T08:31:00.000-07:00

Swinging for Kings:

Cast across and slightly downstream - This will give plenty of time to mend and get the fly down for that long, slow swing. I like to cast right across, throw a upstream mend and with the rod tip raised up, slowly back the fly down til it starts to swing (gives the fly that plugging appearance, backing down in front of them).

Throw a big mend upstream - Kings like the fly slow, a big upstream mend will slow the fly down and help get the fly in their face.

Don't set to early - The classic King take feels like, Headshake....Headshake..............Pull... Wait for the pull before you set the hook. If the King immediately starts screaming line off your reel, you don't need to wait, it's game on.....

Put the Boots to 'em - Once you set the hook and the game has begun, after that first run, fight them hard. If your not working, they are resting. The longer the fight, the more chance they will get off.

Managing line

2010-08-24T12:47:00.000-07:00

Just a little tip when using mono shooting lines. As Paul added before, using Skagit heads requires stripping and handling some sort of shooting line. I was introduced to mono shooting line this past spring while the Skagiteers were in town. Shoots like crazy, and I am hoping it helps with icing this winter. I have high hopes. Love it.

One tricky thing with mono shooting line is that sometimes it can slip while casting. This can and will happen when you apply too much power on the casting stroke, that's for sure. But it also just happens sometimes. One thing I do to limit this annoyance is to pinch it against a rubber band placed on the cork. I just wrap the rubber band on and slide it to where I hold the rod while casting with my upper hand. Whether you hold your loops of the line with your thumb(preferred) or trigger finger, pushing against a rubber band helps with mono shooting lines. I am still in the experimental phase but so far so good! Used it in the rain yesterday and it worked well when wet. We'll see come winter and freezing temps!

Gettin' Ready

2010-08-22T05:03:00.000-07:00

Get your flies ready to swim! Now that the nights are getting cooler, days shorter and the rain is coming down, better have your gear prepped. This means FLIES FLIES FLIES. I have a good start as you can see. Still playing with some new combos to find that magic fly, even though the purple and blue leech is stellar on any trib all year long....

I am a big fan of rabbit, marabou, slim hackles and Rhea in my flies. In fact, one of those materials is always attached to the end of my line. They move so sweetly in the water-on their own or in combination with each other. Plus they have great movement in various water types. Fast, froggy, doesn't matter these materials move. Add some lead eyes and you have a wiggly, diving, jigging streamer that fishes deep and slow.

Cut Shank Flies

2010-08-13T08:17:00.000-07:00

Begin by cutting a hook to the length you want the BODY of your fly to be. On longer patterns, I will bend the hook out straight and cut to length. I use Partridge salmon hooks in 3/0 as they are heavy irons and are over 2" when bent all the way out. This gives me a good variety of length choices.

Next cut a short section of maxima, I like the 20lb brown for my loops.

Now tie a small loop with that short piece of mono, leaving enough room on the shank for the junction tubing. I like to prop it up with the thread or even a wire tag. This helps me find it when rigging the fly.

Then tie your fly, whatever pattern you wish. Now it's time to rig the fly! For the junction tubing, I use 14 or 16 gauge copper wire coating. This can be bought at most any hardware store. Comes in black and red. Cut the wire at about 6". Then with pliers strip out the copper wire inside, and viola! You have junction tubing and more copper wire for ribbing than you will ever use. Any junction tubing matched to the hook shank diameter will work though. Just make sure it's nice and snug so it doesn't come undone while casting. In colder months, the tubing will shrink a bit so beware come November, December and on!

To rig the fly. Thread your tippet thru the hook eye, along the top of the fly, thru the mono loop and then thru the junction tubing. Next tie on the hook to the tippet. I use a simple improved cinch knot or non slip mono loop. Pull the hook tight into the tubing.

Next just snug up the tubing onto the shank and you are ready to fish! This positions the hook in the back 1/3 of the fly-just where I want it for those short nippers. Most of the time when a fish is hooked the fly will slide up the leader and away from teeth. I have been fishing some flies for 2 seasons because they take less abuse this way.

Finished fly rigged and ready to fish. I do my rigging stream side as it gives me time to sit and take everything in before I start the hunt.....

August=Carp time...

2010-08-10T03:41:00.000-07:00

Carpin'

August is a good time to prep for the beginning of Salmon/Steelhead season. Check and double check all gear, backing, lines. Maybe tie some flies. They will be here soon, probably the first scouts will show up in the DSR sometime during the last 2 weeks of August. I always see a few small pods early every morning beginning the 3rd week. Get ready for the clownfest, neoprene's, 50lb test line, shark rods that serve double duty for Salmon, and as always-members of the deep wading association!

Now a quick note about something that is as big as a Salmon, pulls just as hard-possibly harder, and is tough to take on a fly-CARP! Yeah, I know what your thinking. What? Carp? No way. WAY. Using two hand overhead casting techniques sight fishing to actively feeding moster carp in the Finger Lakes is way too much fun. They are big (ranging from 15-40+lbs on average), super spooky and plentiful. Carp will actually flip over rocks with their noses and suck in the nymphs or crayfish as they scurry away. This is why when a carp is feeding there is a prominent "mud line" around or behind them. Something I love to see in otherwise crystal clear water (thanks to the zebra mussels). Landed my first 2 of the summer this past weekend. I use a 10' 7/8 wt Diamondback single hander that I converted to a double hander by adding a few inches of cork to the top grip and milling a 3.5" piece of black walnut as a bottom handle. Works great and also will be my small stream double hander (custom chopped a 15' 340 grain skagit head for it). For two hand overhead casting I really like the Rio Outbound lines. I've gone to the Outbound Short (30ft) in a 10wt-435 grains for carp. Add 12' of straight 10 lb Maxima Ultragreen, a small lead eyed bugger or crayfish imitation, and off you go. ALWAYS tie carp flies so they ride hook point up. This allows me to drag that fly literally along the bottom, like a crayfish.

So....if you ever have the chance, give carp a try sometime. Preferably in a lake setting, shallow water, to actively feeding fish. Just make sure not to land your fly within 3' or so of the fish since this will guarantee a spooked carp as your fly hits the water. Take one look at the colors of this carp and you will see why they are also referred to as Golden Bones.

It's already August.......

2010-08-04T11:29:00.000-07:00

Kings will be here before you know it, are you ready for them??

Rod Review - TFO Deer Creek Switch 8110-4

2010-07-28T05:18:00.000-07:00

First off I will answer the question, What is a switch rod? "Switch Rods" are multi-task fly rods designed to allow a variety of both one handed and two handed casting options.

Temple Fork Outfitters - Deer Creek Series Switch Rod. This switch rod has a simple design by Bob Meiser and Mike Kinney. The rod is rated as an 8wt and for 400-600 grains and is 11 feet in length. It's a deep cobalt blue blank with blue & copper wraps. The handle is spot on in length for the 11' rod and looks great too. The rod is light and a pleasure to cast all day long.

I have mine loaded with a 600 Rio Skagit cut back to 24' (brings down to about 535 grains). Using 10' tips of T-8 up to T-14. If you keep your stroke really tight, this setup will sing. For Dryline swinging, I use a Delta Spey 7/8 which casts really nice, you just need to find the right loading point for your casting stroke on the head, for me a few into the head is perfect.

The price point of this rod is $349.95 and accompanied by the "No Fault" warranty, in my book it’s as good as gold, trust me I know. I broke the tip off in the truck door, sent the rod back with $25 on a Thursday and had it back in 5 working days.

TFO Line Recommendations:

Scandi: Rio AFS 7/8
Skagit: Airflo Skagit Compact 450/480 & Tips to +-130 grains
Short belly Spey: Delta 6/7

This is a great rod for the Salmon River, it's short enough to sneak into small spots when the river is crowded and swing thru pockets, yet powerfull enough to make a 80' cast if needed.

Skagit Master Forum

2010-07-23T06:01:00.000-07:00

Ed, Scott, Mike and crew from the Skagit Master have added a forum along with a blog to the Skagit Master site, Check it out and get your Skagit fix.

Scott Howell Ties a Signature Intruder in less then 2 minutes

2010-07-20T07:11:00.000-07:00

Did you catch all that???

Managing Running Line - Simple Tips

2010-07-14T05:06:00.000-07:00

When using Skagit spey lines – short, heavy heads connected to a running line of one type or another – casting far means stripping off and managing 40' - 70' of running line.

Managing your running line well helps prevent tangles and allows for easier long casts. Here are a few tips to help with tangle-free and long casts.

Make Loops in Descending Size - When making long casts you need to be able to hold multiple loops on line - you wont be able to cast far with 45' of line in a downstream loop in the current. On a cast that shoots 7 strips of line, count 4 strips, hold a loop, count 3 strips, hold a loop, and then make a cast. Holding a couple of the same length is OK, but for some reason that our brains are too small to figure out, loops of the same size tend to tangle.

Mono Running lines - Berkley 25lb - 40lb mono works very well, but the downside it is very slippery when wet. Try pinching the mono running line under your thumb on the top of the cork instead of under with your fingers, I found this works great (thanks Ed). On the Salmon River during those guide freezing days mono running line saves the day when stripping in line all day.

2010-07-01T02:28:00.000-07:00

Well, we've been blessed with water....LOTS of it. Here's a shot of the Altmar bridge. Discharge hit 4500cfs, enough water to cause change throughout the river. Especially in gravel areas. Hopefully we see some monster log jams this fall because of it! The Salmon doesn't have enough fishy log jams anyways!

Unicorns and Spey Nation III

2010-06-21T08:13:00.000-07:00

What a great turn out for Spey Nation III this past Saturday. The Raffle raised a ton of money for the Fish Creek Atlantic Salmon Club. Along with the Spey Nation event a few Unicorns were caught on the Salmon River, what more could you ask for....

Skagit Master Volume 2 Featuring Scott Howell

2010-06-11T12:47:00.000-07:00

Rio has Skagit Master Volume II coming out Sept 2010. Looks like Volume II has more "Fishing" in it. But Where's ED???

Historic Site

2010-06-09T07:18:00.000-07:00

The Salmon River Falls was the highest point on the main stem of the river (before the lower reservoir and dam) that native, wild Atlantic Salmon could migrate. Pretty cool to stand and think about what that scene must have looked like 125 years ago!

So I had a few minutes and needed some new photos of the Falls, and since there is a huge deep isolated pool below I of course brought along the trout switch rod. Glad I did. Caught a few smallies and a nice sucker stripping streamers.

Spey Nation

2010-06-07T08:15:00.000-07:00

Less then two weeks away from the Third Annual Spey Nation.

Come celebrate the emerging 2-handed rod culture in the Great Lakes Fishery on Saturday June 19, 2010. Spey Nation offers the unique opportunity for enthusiasts and manufacturers to gather in a stream side setting. The Location is still the Pineville Boat Launch on the Salmon River in Pineville, NY.

Spey Nation features a full BBQ, raffles, “On the water” demonstrations, and interaction with some of the biggest names in 2 handed casting from the East and West Coasts. Mixing styles, knowledge, and backgrounds, Great Lakes anglers finally have the opportunity to learn Traditional Spey, Scandinavian, and Skagit techniques from the experts, try specialized equipment on the water and talk with other fishermen in an atmosphere dedicated exclusively to 2-handed casting while enjoying a burger and a brew.
Confirmed companies include Scott, Echo, Airflo, Wild Water Fly Rods, Hardy/Greys, CND, CF Burkheimer, Guideline, Buelah, The Spey Company, Temple Forks Outfitters, JP Ross, and Orvis. Representatives from each of these companies will be on hand let you know the latest and greatest from the 2 handed world.

There will be opportunities to take formal lessons on the Sunday after Spey Nation. Please visit our website for the announcement on those and who will be appearing during the event giving demonstrations.

Admission is free. The BBQ is free; Spey Nation is funded completely by generous donations to our raffles. All “Profit” is donated to grass routes Atlantic Salmon and Steelhead conservation projects in our watershed.

To learn more about Spey Nation, visit http://www.speynation.com/ or to join our emailing list, send an email to info@theanglersnet.com.

See ya there.

Dog Days Of Summer - Well Almost

2010-06-03T06:51:00.000-07:00

On these Hot and Humid days of Summer (It is June, so close enough) sure makes you miss the cold mornings on the water. Followed by a nice bright Chrome Steelhead!

Review - Ross CLA Fly Reel

2010-05-30T05:22:00.000-07:00

If you’re looking for a tough dependable reel that won’t break the bank, the Ross CLA is a great choice. Guiding for steelhead is without a doubt one of the best tests for a reel’s longevity. They’re constantly being thrown around, fallen on, set in the dirt, and most of all, given a good work out by pissed-off steelhead. While they lack some of the aesthetics of higher priced reels, they make up for it in price and over-all dependability.

The #6 Reel Specs:

Frame / Spool Material - 6061 TT6 proprietary aluminum alloy.
Drag - Delrin 500AF with impregnated Teflon and maintenance free.
Width: 1.20"
Diameter: 4.25".
Weight: 9.1 oz.
Line weight: 10-12wt, WF11 + 275yds Spey lines 9/10/11 +200yds.
Retail Price: $270

2010-05-27T06:14:00.001-07:00

Switch Rods, they’re not just for Steelhead and Salmon!

So now that the typical Steelhead season has come to an end, I just have to swing flies and practice my Skagit casting somehow. Stream trout, that’s just the ticket. Most people probably think of hatches and dry flies when talking stream trout fishing. Not me. Time for the streamers and crayfish patterns. In the past, I have been spey casting with my little 8’ 3wt single hander, it gets the job done but with way too much effort! This year I am armed with a custom 8’9” 4/5wt that I built with a bottom grip of 3”. Chopped up a 6/7 Delta Long to make a custom Skagit head for the rod. After multiple trips to a local trout stream during higher water periods, I can officially claim success! What a great way to spend the day trout fishing, as a good buddy claimed after multiple aggressive takes-”this is like mini Steelhead fishing”. Yup, exactly.

Using a small double hander has many advantages. The first being that it allows me to throw 3” string leeches and a short sinktip for those chunky browns. I can very easily cast it with one hand when the need arises, which isn’t very often. It keeps me in tune with my casting while covering bank to bank effectively. I can also fish spots that other fisherman pass by because of back casting room. Boy do I love those spots, not only for the challenge of casting in tight quarters but for the simple fact that they are not fished as heavily compared to other locations on the stream. Swinging streamers for resident trout also immediately vaults you into the top 10% of the trout population. Now a 13” trout sounds dull, but when that 13” trout is 6” around-that’s a whole new fish!

Follow the same principles as you would while casting a true double handed rod and it will transform your summer trout fishing. All while practicing your casting for the big show come September.

One disclaimer though. Be prepared for conversation and strange looks on a trout stream with a double handed rod. Seems as though the hard core trout guys are feeling a bit invaded by my antics with this strange casting style. Now I just need to pick up a 3.5/8” Perfect for my smaller rods.

Here’s the fruit of my labor while banging log jams and over hanging brush with a double hander, custom line, and some creative thinking....

Skagit Masters invade the Salmon River

2010-05-05T09:21:00.000-07:00

Well Ed Ward, Scott O'Donnell and Mike McCune made the trip east to the Salmon River, to show us first hand their style of Skagit casting.

Friday we met up with them to float the river, What a great time. These guys opened all sorts of windows for the upcoming fall season.

Scott O' Donnell demonstrating a cast.

Ed Ward giving Loren William's a casting stroke tip.

Mike McCune and Drew watch Scott fish thru a run.

Part of Sunday's Beginner class

Mike McCune Fishing the tail out

These guys are die hard steelhead bums, we had to almost force them off the river to be at a gathering at the DSR on time.

Saturday's event at the Douglaston Salmon had a good turnout. In the morning session Ed, Mike and Scott did casting demo's and a Cast Crasher's demo, to show common things people do wrong. Hardy, Loop, TFO were a few of the rod companies on hand and all had plenty of rods to try out. After lunch we moved up river to Pineville, here they did more casting demo's and answered questions til 5:30. They also helped a lot of people with their casting if they were up talking.

Sunday Skagit classes were held at Pineville, the morning class had a lot of people attending it. They afternoon class had about 15 people, a good number of women were in attendance for both classes.

I asked Ed, Mike and Scott if they planned on coming back next year and the were excited too, they couldn't wait to.

Fishing Your Fly

2010-04-26T11:50:00.000-07:00

Most Spey fisherman get stuck in their ways fishing, they think that if they make a cast and the fly is swinging it will do the rest all by itself. What you need to do is make your fly swim properly, How?? Steer the line with the rod tip is key. If your line isn't doing the right thing, you fly isn't doing the right thing.

RIO's New MOW Tips

2010-04-08T12:39:00.000-07:00

Spring Time High Water -

2010-03-23T06:35:00.000-07:00

We are at that time of the year where we have prespawn, spawning and post spawn fish, combined with ice cold run-off from the snow melt makes it a tough time for the angler. Where do you fish, up high in the river, Mid river or the lower river? Well that depends on how much run off is coming in from the tribs. If they are blown out you need to be above them.

Choose a couple of proven patterns that you have confidence in.
Don't fish one area to long, anchor your line, not your feet.
Look for runs that have soft seams, inside of corners or gravel flats (which in low water would be bare ground).
Lighten up on your sink tips, you don't need to be dredging the bottom, in high flows the fish feel more secure and will move to well swung fly.

Think Spring

2010-03-22T06:30:00.000-07:00

Well Spring is in the air, Last week we had temperatures in the 60's near 70 a couple of day's. Steelhead and Rainbow's have started to spawn in the rivers and creeks and just around the corner we'll be packing away those sink tips we have been throwing all Winter and swinging a dry line. Some of the best swinging is on the way, who will be the first one to get one on a skated fly??

RIO Announces the new M.O.W. Sink Tip System

2010-03-16T10:12:00.000-07:00

It has finally happened! With the help of Mike McCune, Scott O'Donnell, and Ed Ward, Rio is introducing unique sink tip system called the M.O.W. (McCune, O'Donnell, Ward). This is a tip system these guys developed over the years and guiding and fishing skagit lines and having to alter tips to meet their demands. I was fortunate enough to learn this tip system a number of years ago from Mike and have been fishing them for a couple of years now. The M.O.W systems consist of 2.5', 5', 7.5', 10', 12' sink tips and a 10' floating tip. For example, the 2.5' tip has 2.5' of T-11/14 integrated to a 7.5' section of floating line. 5' tip is equals lengths of T-11/14 and floating line. This was the 2.5', 5', 7.5', and 10' sink tips are all 10' in length helping to keep a more consistent anchor. This tip system is ideal for switch and spey rods in the 11'-13'9" range and will come in T-8, T-11, and T-14 varieties. Look for the T-11/14 systems to be available by early May and the T-8 by fall. All kits will retail for $149.95 with a leader wallet. These are a must for any two-hand angler.

For more info check out the Spey Pages thread

Sink Tip Rates

2010-03-15T10:55:00.000-07:00

This a basic rule of thumb to go by, there are a lot of variables that will change the approximate rates posted below.

Poly Leader Sink Rates -

Floating = 0" ips

Clear Hover = .5" ips

Clear Intermediate = 1.5" ips

Slow Sinking = 2.6" ips

Fast Sinking = 3.9" ips

Extra Fast Sinking = 4.9" ips

Super Extra Fast Sinking = 6.1" ips

"T" Sink Tip Material Sink Rates

T-8 = 7" ips 8 grains per foot

T-11 = 8" ips 11 grains per foot

T-14 = 9" ips, 14 grains per foot

High Water Tips -

2010-03-15T10:47:00.000-07:00

So the water on your favorite Steelhead river is high, Here are so tips on how to make a high water event more successful.

Go Fishing - Nobody ever caught a steelhead sitting at home on their couch. Don't give up just because you don't have 3 feet of viability. The fish are still there, just in different places.

Fish At Your Feet - When the river’s low, the best holding water for steelhead is often out in the middle of the river in the main current. When the river is high, they still prefer the same kind of water – only now, that water is often right up against the bank. Fish won't going to fight heavy flows in the middle of the runs when the water is up, so keep your line short and cover the holding water that’s now often 2 to 30 feet in front of you.

Fish Lighter Tips - Contrary to what you may think, you, you generally don't need to be too deep when the water is up. With less clarity and higher flows, steelhead feel safer in shallower, softer water. That means that dredging may put your fly beneath the fish. On the end of that short line that you're casting, fish a lighter sinktip. You may be surprised at what you find in not very much water.

Fish Big Flies - Here’s your chance to break out the Big Intruders you have been tying. Those big profile flies were designed for conditions in which it takes a big fly to get the attention of the fish. Remember darker colors tend to be more visible in dirty water.

Look For Soft Water - You already know that you should mostly be fishing a in close to stay out of the really heavy current. Steelhead like softer water when the level is up, so you should be on the lookout for it at all times. Maybe it’s right up against the bank.

Skagit Expo

2010-02-05T07:35:00.001-08:00

Hey All, I wanted to make an official announcement that May 1 and 2, 2010 Spey nation will be hosting the Skagiteers on the Salmon River in NY. Pineville parking lot, same as our June clave. Kind of a mini Skagit Clave if you will. Saturday will be demos, hanging out talking rods, lines, flies with Ed Ward, Scott O'Donnell, and Mike McCune. We are also trying to line up a few more demonstrators for Saturday.

Classes will be held on Sunday. There will be a Beginner Skagit class, and an intermediate/advanced class as well. Max 5 people per instructor and at $165 per person, a fantastic deal. Please pm me or email me at zmbrooks@gmail.com to sign up for the class. I already have 3 spots spoken for.

We are still working on rods, lines to play with on Saturday. I will update this post as things progress. Thank and hope to see you there for this rare opportunity!

- Zach

I hate these type of days

2010-02-05T05:08:00.000-08:00

As I sit here at my desk at 8:15 am doing paperwork on a Sunny Friday morning, Four of my friends are all out swinging flies searching for that explosive take. I'm sure it won't be long before the first text message of a take or that phone call you answer and all you hear is someones drag screaming with grown men giggling in the background, then they hangup.

Why Spey Cast

2010-02-04T08:41:00.000-08:00

Why Spey Cast -

It’s easier to cover the water with a spey rod.
If you need to cast more than 20 feet to get your fly to the fish, you can do it with a spey rod, with less effort than with a single-handed rod.

Spey rods give better line control.
Mending with a 13′ rod allows you to move more line than mending with a 9′ rod.

Spey casting is easier on your body – especially your shoulders.
You can keep your arms close to your body and still get the line out with a spey rod.

During those occasional stretches where you’re not catching fish, the casting itself is fun.
Practicing some new cast's, cheer yourself on when you really bang one out there.

All the gear.
Guilty as charged most steelhead fisherman I know are gear whores. Spey fishing tackle and techniques are changing constantly, and it’s interesting to keep up with the cutting edge.

Welcome to Salmon River Spey -

2010-02-04T07:57:00.000-08:00

A online resource for the Lake Ontario tributary Spey fisherman.

Salmon River Spey

Tube Fly Hangers

Circle C Spey Cast

Mending

M & M's

Rio's New UniSpey Line

Swing Time....

Oh Mother Nature

Rio's New Scandi Short

5 Tips - Swinging for Kings

Pineville Bridge progress

White Mouse

Perfect Fly

Start Them Young

What's in the vise???

Spey Nation - June 25, 2011

Spring Time High Water Fishing

Scott Howell's Squidro Intruder

Redd Alert

Rod Review - TFO Deer Creek Spey 12'6 5/6

Stan Bogdan passes on.....

Hang on to your Hackle

Part IV....

Part III...

Part II

Building a rod....Part I

Bob Clay and Family

What's In The Vise???

Had A Hour To Play

Modern Bugger

Skagit Double Spey

Downstream Perry Poke

Underwater Steelie Video

Handling fish and pictures....

Tying some swap flies....

Welding Lines

Thinking out side the box - Got Popper's??

What's in the Vise?

Hook: bass stinger cut shankTrailer: #2 Octopus on 40# braidButt: fl. pink seal (or angora)Tail: mix of pink/orange/blue LA fibers under sparse pearl KFBody: fl. orange (3)/bubblegum pink(2)/red marabou wrapped(1)Hackle: mix of pink/blue LA fibers

Like us on Facebook

The Fly Fishing Show

Stay Committed

What's In The Vise??

Skagit Master Volume 2 Featuring Scott Howell

Stay shallow, cast further

Muddy Chrome

Mono Alternative

First day back...

My Beloved Taupo

The International Fly Tying Symposium

Rain

Ross Reach Switch Rods for 2011

RIO SWITCH LINE for 2011

River Etiquette

Dean River Anglers’ Creed

The Fall Swing: Keep it High and Tight!

When it all comes together

What more could you ask for

Anchors and fast water.....

Salmon River Sport Shop

After the Flood -

Swinging for Kings

Managing line

Gettin' Ready

Cut Shank Flies

August=Carp time...

It's already August.......

Rod Review - TFO Deer Creek Switch 8110-4

Skagit Master Forum

Scott Howell Ties a Signature Intruder in less then 2 minutes

Managing Running Line - Simple Tips

Unicorns and Spey Nation III

Skagit Master Volume 2 Featuring Scott Howell

Historic Site

Spey Nation

Dog Days Of Summer - Well Almost

Review - Ross CLA Fly Reel

Skagit Masters invade the Salmon River

Fishing Your Fly

RIO's New MOW Tips

Hook: bass stinger cut shank
Trailer: #2 Octopus on 40# braid
Butt: fl. pink seal (or angora)
Tail: mix of pink/orange/blue LA fibers under sparse pearl KF
Body: fl. orange (3)/bubblegum pink(2)/red marabou wrapped(1)
Hackle: mix of pink/blue LA fibers